Sure that the dropouts broke due to no using of torque arms but also the KU controller delivers 30A (~W) to the motor which is a LOT!!. I received a spare controller for it today. It is 36v w and internally it looks almost exactly like a KU The difference being that this one has. I have redesigned the KU63 motor controller from BMSbattery. Here is the circuit: Don’t use the image above, download the circuit high.
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I’d forgotten that when it was last fitted to the bike that the throttle wouldn’t work without the pas turning first, so I’ll have to rig something controlller to test that. Some judicious application ku36 booze, and add one digital potentiometer, and it’s time to start thinking about PID controllers Thanks for the help identifying the external lead connection points Dave. As the guy says on his web page: If so, then maybe my rewire is just feeding a higher voltage back, regardless of what the panel is showing the leds do step through the three settings when the pas button is pushed.
New media New comments Search media. Does it look like it had a wire on it? The throttle can’t be in the three speed connector because there is no voltage to be found anywhere on the connector.
I can drive Dalek Bob reasonably well. This, I guess, is the moment when I decide how I’m going to move forward on that given that the original plan didn’t work out. Bummed that my con is gone, I worked on other things This controller also has a 3 wire 3 speed connector on it in addition to the standard varying voltage connection.
This notes file about now about 80MBytes and can be found here: So it would normally read 5v. As you can see from the photos, contdoller original soldering on this KU65 is quite scruffy, whereas those Conhismotor controllers were beautifully soldered, even though neither of them worked though!
This feature is only available when using our OpenSource firmware. I connected the PAS sensor and flicked the magnet past it a few times and the motor started ok, then uk63 throttle kept it going, so it’s working fine now.
SD is my throttle. My panel signal goes to 3, which is the last pad next to where your yellow is, so yellow is probably panel signal. BeforeI’d not cotnroller with brushless DC motors.
If we can’t figure it out between us, I’ll open it. The thin blacks are all common grounds.
The reason that it looks messy is because the tracks have been beefed up after wave soldering. I’m trying to figure out some of the external lead connections on what I believe is a KU63 controller.
Which is mostly true; I made some comtroller mistakes along the way. The brake will work on SL. As you don’t have any speed restriction wires, you might find a software restriction! When compared to the S06S controller: The printf output over UART serial: An eight way to the motor, A two way to the battery, A two way to the PAS sensor because it was nearer and a multi way to the handlebars carrying everything else.
KU63 controller circuit board connections | Pedelecs – Electric Bike Community
Which brings me back around to controllers. I am being using the donations to buy needed resources for my developments. And a project that needs two more. Last edited by casainho on Jul 01 So until someone translates it for me, “nameless” they shall remain.
KU63 KU93 KU controller hacking – Endless Sphere
All controllers don’t use the same connector placement. I didn’t used torque arms and I just had 30 seconds the bicycle with me and after the aluminium dropouts on the forque broke!! When you want to actively brake the brushless motor, you just short out each of the electromagnet coils. I have already soldered a jumper wire so it can work without pedal assist and Dontroller have added a jumper so that it powers on when the battery is connected. It only took about 6 hours to trace out the majority of the circuitry; when I started wondering what the mystery circuitry was for seriously, there are pins on the CPU that have capacitors directly to ground and naught else – why?
If you cut the jumper, it reverted to normal throttle operation. Home All times are UTC.
I’ve resurrected this thread because I’ve now pressed this “spare” KU65 controller into use on my Dahon Boardwalk with the Q 36v w rpm motor. Normally you’d spin the motor by pulsing power in to each of the three electromagnet coils in sequence. Being very aware of the Dunning-Kruger effectI assumed that I would need to learn quite controllet lot, and that I’d come out ,u63 other side thinking myself an idiot.
The permanent magnets start to spin, which induces current in the electromagnet coil; but the coil is shorted, which induces an opposing electromagnetic force. The colour contrkller changed from the green wire within the loom connections. This means you’re missing two wires, the green signal from the panel, and the green signal from the PAS.
Can be commanded by an Arduino or other similar external microcontroller board.
Your Email Remember me. If the power is still too much, grind the remaining shunt thinner or put the second shunt in series with it, so you effectively get near 10A down controllet 40A. I’ve now discovered that although it appeared to work, it doesn’t seem to be switching the three different levels of PAS.